Production of Loom:
The production of a loom mainly depends on the speed of the loom. Higher speed does not always mean higher production because if it exceeds certain limit, loom stoppages due to excessive warp breakages occurring. As a result of higher speed may even reduce the production to a considerable extent. Other factors which affect production are picks inserted per inch of the cloth, quality of the warp and weft, type of loom i.e plain, dobby, jacquard, automatic etc. types of organization i.e 2- loom system or 4- loom system, size of weft package, type of weft package.
The production of a loom mainly depends on the speed of the loom. Higher speed does not always mean higher production because if it exceeds certain limit, loom stoppages due to excessive warp breakages occurring. As a result of higher speed may even reduce the production to a considerable extent. Other factors which affect production are picks inserted per inch of the cloth, quality of the warp and weft, type of loom i.e plain, dobby, jacquard, automatic etc. types of organization i.e 2- loom system or 4- loom system, size of weft package, type of weft package.
FIBER FINENESS, YARN COUNTS AND CONVERSIONS
Micronaire Value (Cotton): The unit is micrograms per inch. The average weight of one inch length of fibre, expressed in micrograms(0.000001 gram).
Denier (Man-Made Fibres): Weight in grams per 9000 meters of fibre.
Micron (Wool): Fineness is expressed as fibre diameter in microns(0.001mm)
Conversions:
§
Denier = 0.354 x Micronaire value
§
Micronaire value = 2.824 x Denier
§
YARN COUNTS
It is broadly classified into;
It is broadly classified into;
1. INDIRECT SYSTEM
2. DIRECT SYSTEM
INDIRECT SYSTEM
§
English count (Ne)
§
French count(Nf)
§
Metric count(Nm)
§
Worsted count
Metric system: Metric count(Nm)
indicates the number of 1 kilometer(1000 meter) lengths per Kg.
§
Nm = length in Km / weight in kg (or)
§
Nm = length meter / weight in grams
DIRECT SYSTEM
§
Tex count
§
Denier
CONVERSION TABLE FOR YARN COUNTS
|
Tex
|
Den
|
Nm
|
Grains/yd
|
|
|
Tex
|
den/9
|
1000/Nm
|
gr.yd x
70.86
|
|
|
Ne
|
590.54/tex
|
5314.9/den
|
Nm x .5905
|
8.33 / gr/yd
|
|
Den
|
tex x 9
|
9000/Nm
|
gr/yd x 637.7
|
|
|
Nm
|
1000/tex
|
9000/den
|
14.1 / gr/yd
|
|
|
Grains/yd
|
tex / 70.86
|
den / 637.7
|
14.1/Nm
|
CONVERSION TABLE FOR WEIGHTS
|
Ounce
|
Grains
|
Grams
|
Kilograms
|
Pounds
|
|
|
Ounce
|
437.5 grains
|
28.350 grams
|
|||
|
Grains
|
0.03527 ounces
|
0.0648 grams
|
|||
|
Grams
|
0.03527 grains
|
15.432 grains
|
0.001 kgs
|
||
|
Kilograms
|
35.274 ounces
|
15432 grains
|
1000 grams
|
2.2046 pounds
|
|
|
Pounds
|
16.0 ounces
|
7000 grains
|
453.59 grams
|
0.4536 kgs
|
CONVERSION TABLE FOR LINEAR MEASURES
|
Yard
|
Feet
|
Inches
|
Centimeter
|
Meter
|
|
|
Yard
|
3 feet
|
36 inches
|
91.44 cms
|
0.9144 meter
|
|
|
Feet
|
0.3333 yards
|
12 inches
|
30.48 cms
|
0.3048 meter
|
|
|
Inches
|
0.0278 yards
|
0.0833 feet
|
2.54 cms
|
0.254 meter
|
|
|
Centimeter
|
0.0109 yards
|
0.0328 feet
|
0.3937 inches
|
0.01meter
|
|
|
Meter
|
1.0936 yards
|
3.281 feet
|
39.37 inches
|
100 cms
|
CALCULATIONS
§
Grams per meter = 0.5905 / Ne
§
Grams per yard = 0.54 / Ne
§
Tex = den x .11 = 1000/Nm = Mic/25.4
§
Ne = Nm/1.693
§
DRAFT = (feed weight in g/m) / (delivery weight in g/m)
§
DRAFT = Tex (feed) / Tex(delivery)
§
DRAFT = delivery roll surface speed / feed roll surface speed
§
No of hanks delivered by m/c = (Length delivered in m/min) / 1.605
WINDING
1. Slub catcher settings :
a. Fixed Blade = Carded - (2.0 to 2.5) x diameter
Combed - (1.5 to 2.0) x diameter
b. Electronic yarn clearer = 3 cm x 3 diameter
1. Slub catcher settings :
a. Fixed Blade = Carded - (2.0 to 2.5) x diameter
Combed - (1.5 to 2.0) x diameter
b. Electronic yarn clearer = 3 cm x 3 diameter
Diameter in inch for Blended yarn = 1/( 28 x √count )
= 10 to 15% more settings
Number of objectionable thick faults removed by slub catcher
2.Yarn clearer efficiency =..................................................................................................x 100
Total objectionable thick faults present in yarn before winding
Total breaks during winding (at faults)
3. Knot factor =...............................................................................
No. of breaks due to objectionable yarn faults
Strength of spliced joint x 100
4. Retained splice strength = ...........................................................
Strength of parent yarn
5. Winding Tension = 0.1 x Single yarn strength in grams
4500 x Y
6. Expected efficiency E = ......................................................
S x N (12 + 98)
7. Winder’s workload (0.17 min/operation on conventional winding m/c) = 2300 operations per shift of 8 hours
Where,
7. Winder’s workload (0.17 min/operation on conventional winding m/c) = 2300 operations per shift of 8 hours
Where,
§
1 creeling or 1 piecing = 1 operation
§
1 doffing = 2 operations
8. Winder’s workload on autoconer (0.08 min per operation)
= 4800 operations/shift of 8 hours
Where,
Where,
§
1 bobbing feeding = 1 operation
§
1 doffing (manual) = 4.5 operation
Y = Length/Bobbin (metres)
B = Breaks per bobbin
S = Winding speed (metres/min)
C = English count
B = Breaks per bobbin
S = Winding speed (metres/min)
C = English count
9. Production in Kgs / 8 Hrs = (0.2836 x L x Effy x Nd) / (Ne)
§
L - delivery speed in m/min
§
effy - efficiency
§
Ne - english count
§
Nd - No of delvieries
10. P =( L x 1.0936 x 60 x Effy ) / (Hank (Ne)
x 36 x 840 x 2.2045)
§
P - production in kgs / hr
§
L - delivery speed in m/min
§
effy- efficiency
§
Ne - English count ( number of 840 yards in one pound)
§
840 - constant
§
2.2045- to convert from lbs to kilograms
WARPING
R x 100
1. Machine Efficiency E =.............................
R + S
R = Uninterrupted running time for 1,000 meters (in sec)
1000 x 60
= .................................................
Machine speed in mtr/min.
S = Total of time in seconds for which the machine is stopped for a production of 1,000 meters
B X N X T1 T2 T3
= R + ---------------- + ------ + ----------- + T4
400 L L x C
R x 100
1. Machine Efficiency E =.............................
R + S
R = Uninterrupted running time for 1,000 meters (in sec)
1000 x 60
= .................................................
Machine speed in mtr/min.
S = Total of time in seconds for which the machine is stopped for a production of 1,000 meters
B X N X T1 T2 T3
= R + ---------------- + ------ + ----------- + T4
400 L L x C
§
B = Ends breaks/400 ends/1,000 meters
§
N = Number of ends
§
L = Set length in 1,000 meters
§
C = Beams per creel
Timing of activities in seconds are :
§
T1 = To mend a break
§
T2 = To change a beam
§
T3 = To change a creel
§
T4 = Miscellaneous Time loss/1,000 mtrs.
2. Production in metres per 8 hrs. (K) = 480 x mtrs/min x E/100
kgs.
3. Production in Kgs. per 8 hrs. = (K x N)/(1693 x English Count)
4. Warping Tension = 0.03 to 0.05 x Single thread strength
SIZING
Length in metre x 1.094 x Total ends
1. Warp weight (in kg.) = ……………………………………………x 100
840 x 2.204 x Warp count
Sized warp weight - Unsized warp weight
2. Size pick-up % =……………………………………………………… x 100
Un-sized warp weight
3. Weight of size = Warp Weight x Size pick up %
Sized warp length - Unsized warp length
4. Stretch % = …………………………………………………x 100
Un-sized warp length
Total-ends x Warp length in yards
5. Sized yarn count = ………………………………………………………
Sized warp weight (lbs) x 840
Wt. of sized yarn - Wt. of oven dried yarn
6. % of Moisture content= ………………………………………………… x 100
Wt. of sized yarn
Deliver counter reading - Feed counter reading
7. % of Stretch =……………………………………………………… x 100
3. Production in Kgs. per 8 hrs. = (K x N)/(1693 x English Count)
4. Warping Tension = 0.03 to 0.05 x Single thread strength
SIZING
Length in metre x 1.094 x Total ends
1. Warp weight (in kg.) = ……………………………………………x 100
840 x 2.204 x Warp count
Sized warp weight - Unsized warp weight
2. Size pick-up % =……………………………………………………… x 100
Un-sized warp weight
3. Weight of size = Warp Weight x Size pick up %
Sized warp length - Unsized warp length
4. Stretch % = …………………………………………………x 100
Un-sized warp length
Total-ends x Warp length in yards
5. Sized yarn count = ………………………………………………………
Sized warp weight (lbs) x 840
Wt. of sized yarn - Wt. of oven dried yarn
6. % of Moisture content= ………………………………………………… x 100
Wt. of sized yarn
Deliver counter reading - Feed counter reading
7. % of Stretch =……………………………………………………… x 100
Feed counter reading
840,000 x D x C
8. % Droppings on loom = ……………………………. x 100
454 Y x N x P
840,000 x D x C
8. % Droppings on loom = ……………………………. x 100
454 Y x N x P
D = Dropping in gms.
C = English Count
Y = Length woven (yds.)
Y = Length woven (yds.)
N = Number of Ends
P = % size add on
P = % size add on
9. Invisible Loss%
Amount of size material issued - Amount of size added on yarn
= ………………………………………………………….....................x 100
Amount of size issued
Steam, Consumption (Sizing M/c) = 2.0 kg/kg of sized yarn
(Cooker) = 0.3 kg/kg of liquor
(Sow box) = 0.2 kg/kg of yarn
No. of Cylinder x 1,000 x English count
10. Max. Speed of machine = ………………………………………………
(metres/min) Number of ends
Number of ends x 0.6
11. Wt. of warp in gms/mtr = …………………………
English count
WEAVING
1. Reed Count : It is calculated in stock port system.
EPI
Reed width = ………………………………
1 + Weft crimp %age
No. of dents in 2 inches is called Reed Count
2. Reed Width :
100 + Weft crimp %age
Reed width = Cloth width x ………………………………
100
3. Crimp % :
Warp length - Cloth length
Warp Crimp %age =…………………………………………. x 100
Cloth length
Weft length - Cloth length
Weft Crimp %age = ……………………………… x 100
Cloth length
EPI
Amount of size material issued - Amount of size added on yarn
= ………………………………………………………….....................x 100
Amount of size issued
Steam, Consumption (Sizing M/c) = 2.0 kg/kg of sized yarn
(Cooker) = 0.3 kg/kg of liquor
(Sow box) = 0.2 kg/kg of yarn
No. of Cylinder x 1,000 x English count
10. Max. Speed of machine = ………………………………………………
(metres/min) Number of ends
Number of ends x 0.6
11. Wt. of warp in gms/mtr = …………………………
English count
WEAVING
1. Reed Count : It is calculated in stock port system.
EPI
Reed width = ………………………………
1 + Weft crimp %age
No. of dents in 2 inches is called Reed Count
2. Reed Width :
100 + Weft crimp %age
Reed width = Cloth width x ………………………………
100
3. Crimp % :
Warp length - Cloth length
Warp Crimp %age =…………………………………………. x 100
Cloth length
Weft length - Cloth length
Weft Crimp %age = ……………………………… x 100
Cloth length
EPI
4. Warp cover factor = ....................................
√Warp Count
PPI
5. Weft cover factor =…………………….
√Weft count
Wp.C.F. x Wt. C.F.
6. Cloth cover factor = Wp.C.F. + Wt.C.F. - ……………………………….
28
7. Maximum EPI for particular count :
a. For plain fabrics = 14 x √Count
b. For drill fabrics = √Count x 28 x 4/6
c. For satin fabric = √Count x 28 x 5/7
Ends/repeat x 1 / yarn diameter
d. Other design = ………………………………………………………..
No. of intersections / repeat + ends/repeat
1
8. Yarn diameter = ……………………
28 x √Count
Weave Density
1. Warp density = Ends/cm x √Tex x K
= < 250
2. Filling density = Picks/cm x √Tex x K
= < 350
(Warp density - 100) x F.D.- 100
3. Weave Density = 50 + ……………………………………………
(Weft density - 100) x F.D.- 100
4. Effective weave density = W.D. x K of loom width x K of Design = < 72
√Warp Count
PPI
5. Weft cover factor =…………………….
√Weft count
Wp.C.F. x Wt. C.F.
6. Cloth cover factor = Wp.C.F. + Wt.C.F. - ……………………………….
28
7. Maximum EPI for particular count :
a. For plain fabrics = 14 x √Count
b. For drill fabrics = √Count x 28 x 4/6
c. For satin fabric = √Count x 28 x 5/7
Ends/repeat x 1 / yarn diameter
d. Other design = ………………………………………………………..
No. of intersections / repeat + ends/repeat
1
8. Yarn diameter = ……………………
28 x √Count
Weave Density
1. Warp density = Ends/cm x √Tex x K
= < 250
2. Filling density = Picks/cm x √Tex x K
= < 350
(Warp density - 100) x F.D.- 100
3. Weave Density = 50 + ……………………………………………
(Weft density - 100) x F.D.- 100
4. Effective weave density = W.D. x K of loom width x K of Design = < 72
|
|
|
|
To change the count and number of thread/inch,
keeping the same denseness of the fabric :
1. To change the EPI without altering the denseness :
EPI in given cloth x √ Warp count in expected cloth
EPI in Exp.Cloth =………………………………………………………………
√ Warp count in given cloth
2. To change the count without altering the
denseness :
EPI in exp. cloth2
EPI in exp. cloth = …………………………………x Count in given cloth
EPI in given cloth
Warp requirement to weave a cloth :
Total ends x 1.0936 x 453.59 x crimp%
1. Warp weight in gms/mtrs. =…………..............................................x Wasteage%
EPI in exp. cloth2
EPI in exp. cloth = …………………………………x Count in given cloth
EPI in given cloth
Warp requirement to weave a cloth :
Total ends x 1.0936 x 453.59 x crimp%
1. Warp weight in gms/mtrs. =…………..............................................x Wasteage%
840 x Count
2. Weft weight in gms/mtrs.
R.S. in inches x 453.59 x PPI
=…………………………………x Crimp % x Waste %
840 x Count
2. Weft weight in gms/mtrs.
R.S. in inches x 453.59 x PPI
=…………………………………x Crimp % x Waste %
840 x Count
3. Cloth length in mtrs.with the given
weft weight
Weft wt. in kgs. x
Weft count x 1848 x 0.9144
=……………………………………………………….
PPI x R.S. in inches
For Silk and Polyester :
1. Warp weight in gms/mtrs.
Total ends x Count (Denier)
= ……………………………..............x Crimp% x Waste %age
9000
2. Weft weight in gms/mtrs.
RS in inches x PPI x
Count (Denier)
= …………………………………........ x Crimp% x Wasteage%
9000
Allowance for count in Bleached and Dyed Fabric :
= …………………………………........ x Crimp% x Wasteage%
9000
Allowance for count in Bleached and Dyed Fabric :
§
Count becomes 4%
§
Finer Dyed counts become max.6% Coarser
FABRIC PRODUCTION
Motor pulley diameter
1. Loom speed = Motor RPM x ………………………………….
Loom pulley diameter
Actual production
2. Loom Efficiency % = ------------------------------- x 100
Calculated production
Yarn weight - Dryed yarn weight
3. Moisture Regain % = ----------------------------------------------------- x 100
Dryed yarn weight
Yarn weight - dried yarn weight
4. Moisture Content % = ----------------------------------------------- x 100
Yarn weight
Total ends x Tape length in metre
5. Warp weight in Kg. = ------------------------------------------------------
1693.6 x Warp count
RS in centimetres x Coth length in metres x PPI
6. Weft weight in Kg. = -------------------------------------------------------------------
4301.14 x Weft count
EPI PPI
7. Cloth weight in GSM = ------------------ + -------------------- x 25.6
Warp count Weft count
GSM (Grams per sq. metre)
8. Oz (Ounce) per sq.yard = --------------------------------------------
34
Material measurement :
For calculating of length of any rolled fabrics :
0.0655 (D - d) (D + d)
L = ---------------------------------
t
Where,
Motor pulley diameter
1. Loom speed = Motor RPM x ………………………………….
Loom pulley diameter
Actual production
2. Loom Efficiency % = ------------------------------- x 100
Calculated production
Yarn weight - Dryed yarn weight
3. Moisture Regain % = ----------------------------------------------------- x 100
Dryed yarn weight
Yarn weight - dried yarn weight
4. Moisture Content % = ----------------------------------------------- x 100
Yarn weight
Total ends x Tape length in metre
5. Warp weight in Kg. = ------------------------------------------------------
1693.6 x Warp count
RS in centimetres x Coth length in metres x PPI
6. Weft weight in Kg. = -------------------------------------------------------------------
4301.14 x Weft count
EPI PPI
7. Cloth weight in GSM = ------------------ + -------------------- x 25.6
Warp count Weft count
GSM (Grams per sq. metre)
8. Oz (Ounce) per sq.yard = --------------------------------------------
34
Material measurement :
For calculating of length of any rolled fabrics :
0.0655 (D - d) (D + d)
L = ---------------------------------
t
Where,
L = Length of material (feet)
t = Thickness of fabrics (inches)
D = Outside diameter (inches)
d = Inside diameter (inches)
t = Thickness of fabrics (inches)
D = Outside diameter (inches)
d = Inside diameter (inches)
Weight of yarn in a cloth :
The weight of cloth manufactured on loom depends upon the weight of yarns in the warp and weft : ends/inch, picks/inch and the weight of size on the warp.
Therefore, Cloth weight = Weight of warp + Weight of weft + Weight of size (All in lbs.)
Total No. of Ends x Tape length in yds.
Where as Weight of warp in lbs = -----------------------------------------------------
840 x Warp yarn count
Also Weight of weft in lbs.
Length of cloth (yds) x Picks/inch in cloth x Reed width (inch)
= -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
840 x Weft yarn count
